RP 98: The Cornas of the vintage is Clape’s 2012 Cornas. An incredible effort, its inky purple/black color is followed by spectacular aromas and flavors of black raspberry, graphite, beef blood, iron, cedar and white pepper (among other things). This is Cornas at its finest, with insane aromatics, full-bodied richness and massive concentration, yet at the same time staying elegant, seamless and gorgeously pure. It’s more approachable than the 2010, but should still need 3-4 years of cellaring and have two decades of longevity.
While it doesn't get any more Cornas than Clape, these wines also speak just as loudly of the domaine as they do of the steep granite slopes of the appellation. There's always something unique in these wines, something bloody, meaty and iron-like, and I've yet to find something similar in other wines. In my opinion, these wines are the epitome of Cornas. Looking at Pierre-Marie's 2012s, these are some of the most concentrated and structured wines in the vintage, yet they have enough texture to dish out plenty of pleasure even now. Pierre-Marie recommends drinking these over the coming 10-12 years, but I would push that window out even further. Also, while it's common to chase the top wines, don't miss his Cornas Renaissance in 2012. It's a terrific wine. The 2013s on the other hand will need short-term cellaring to become approachable. Pierre-Marie called these "very, very classic," and wines to keep. I certainly agree with him.
WS 96: Gorgeous, with captivating aromas of rosemary, lavender, violet and warmed cherry preserves, followed by vivid black currant, boysenberry and plum pâte de fruit flavors. Shows ample olive, pepper and bay leaf notes in reserve, with serious chalky grip for the long haul. This has power, purity and terroir for days. The benchmark estate of the AOC. Best from 2018 through 2032. 1,580 cases made.
"In the world of wine, there are many good winegrowers. However, there are only a very select few who are truly great, and Auguste Clape is among them. Critics and connoisseurs alike all agree that he is one of the greatest pioneers of the Northern Rhône, and his Syrahs from the cru of Cornas are among the most celebrated wines of France. The Clapes have been vignerons for many generations, but the infamous grower strikes of 1906 and 1907 forced his grandfather out of the Languedoc and into the Northern Rhône to start anew from practically nothing. The Clapes rebuilt their fortunes, terrace-by-terrace, along the steep, western slopes of the Rhône River. For many years, the majority of growers in Cornas sold their fruit to négociants. Auguste was the first to bottle his own wine, which eventually paved the way for such contemporary superstars as Thierry Allemand. Without pretense or fanfare, Auguste, the former mayor of Cornas, is a stately picture of grace and magnanimity—a no-nonsense wise man who is still interested in learning. Today, he works side-by-side with his son, Pierre-Marie, and grandson, Olivier.
Though the Clapes farm only eight hectares, the challenge presented by the rough, tightly stacked terrace vineyards of Cornas is largely enough to handle by anybody’s standards. The dicey precipices make using any machinery in the vineyards impossible. All work must be done by hand. There are no official rules to their viticultural methodology—they work the old-fashioned way, by instinct, feeling, and common sense. The vineyards sit on granite subsoil, behind the village, with optimal sun exposure. They own pieces of such prime parcels as Reynard and La Côte, as well as Les Mazards and Pied La Vigne. They also recently acquired the vineyard, Les Sabarottes, bought from the now retired Noël Verset. Their only secrets: starting with old vines, and optimizing the ripeness of the fruit as best they can. They accomplish this by holding out before they harvest—a risky game of ‘chicken’ where the trick is to keep the fruit on the vine as long as possible while still harvesting before the rains. Individual parcels are vinified separately in old, oval foudres. Long élévages of twelve to twenty-two months add depth to the natural complexity of the wines. The wines are capable of tremendous longevity in the cellar, although Kermit also encourages trying them while they are young and fresh, to better appreciate the evolution to come. For a taste of the old-style Syrah from the fabulous, sculptured slopes of the Northern Rhône, Auguste Clape’s Cornas is the only place to start."
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